This is the continued edition of what you'll find at restoredyouth.blogspot.com (since blogger seems to have done away with the handy hyperlink function).
I have learned so much. Here's the first thing I learned, which I had hoped to expound on earlier, but better now than never.
The day after my last post titled, "pokhara, nepal" I was out with friends in the popular tourist area known as Lakeside which is where street kids go to live because that's where the money is. From tourists. Fair enough, they're actually quite clever (there's no motivator like survival). My favorite is the football scam where an innocent looking kid comes up to you with a piece of notebook paper that has their plea personally handwritten. The letter says that they want to grow up and be a professional football (soccer) player, and they want to join their local team but can only show up for the team if they have their own football. They ask you to buy them a football, or at least donate to the cause and even have a section where you write your name, your country, and your amount of donation. Like Girl Scout Cookies. But here's the deal, if you give them money, they just pocket it and use it for food, drugs, or even a room at night. But, if you buy them a football, the shop owner will have sold it to you for probably 1200 Nepali rupees (about $20). They return the football to the shop, and the shop owner simply gives them what he made on the deal, probably minus a little (maybe like 1000 rupees since the cost of the football is 200 rupees). The shop owner is obviously in on selling an item and not having to buy a new one to replace it. You can have your cake and eat it too. So, the shop owner's happy, the kids are happy, even the tourist is happy because he just helped solved the world's problems one football-at-a-time. Clearly everyone involved has read the Win-Win Negotiator. The grown up version of this scam is the ever-popular gemstone scam. I even had the opportunity to be fully wine and dined by my local dealer before I decided to not show up for the signing deal with my credit cards and passport ready to give to this very nice looking fellow. Sketchy. Everyone wants a piece of the action.
But I digress.
Lakeside, right. Out with friends. As I was walking a couple of my friends back to their hotels I heard some kids yelling, "Jay Dai, Jay Dai!" (which translated means, "Brother J, brother J!" Since I was looking for the boys that had earlier run away I told my friends to keep going because I needed to see what was going on. As I approached the awning they were sitting under I saw three kids, about 12 years old, that I had never met in my life. I questioned them about how they knew my name, and they just said that they always see me around and know that I 'help kids like us out.'
'So you help us, and we help you. Okay?'
'You help me? How can you help me out?'
'We know where your friends are.'
'Really...(skeptically)? Where?'
'I show you, you help us out.'
'Fine.'
They took me to the hotel room that Gopal had obtained with what he claimed was hand-outs from tourists. Who knows. Bibek was completely passed out, not of exhaustion, so I just kidnapped him and told Gopal I would be back the next day to talk to him. As I was carrying Bibek like a sack of potatoes from the first taxi that was trying to rip me off due to my unfortunate state of affairs of lugging around a passed out 11-year-old around with me to another taxi, Santosh, my personal guide for the street scene of Lakeside says to me, "You really love them don't you?"
'Uhhh... Yeah. A lot... You have no idea."
"Maybe you come back and help us too. Maybe help us with education?"
"Uhhhh.. maybe. I'll come by tomorrow. We'll talk."
I never saw these kids again, even as I would look for them as I walked around Lakeside. However, I would be lying to you if I told you that this encounter didn't initiate a period of strife and contemplation involving me considering completely foregoing or at least significantly postponing my return to America. I mean, to invest in a place, get to know the people, the people apparently become aware of you despite you not knowing them, and to just uproot and leave. Derye garo (very difficult).
Bibek recovered the next day. Arjun, Dorje and I cleaned him up. When he tried to leave in a huff back to Lakeside and discovered that his sandals were missing he started to get pretty agitated. He concluded that I stole his sandals, preventing him from leaving, and threw an impressive temper tantrum. The emotions outweighed the logic of me simply telling him, "You no have sandals when I took you last night," and the rant continued. Right at the moment when I had given up on dealing with the situation was when the older brother of the family walked in. And in the most calm, caring, firm manner imaginable calmed Bibek down and convinced him to stay the night (with the hope of just getting him back in his old routine of school the next day). I was awed at the timing and perfection of one stepping in to handle a situation when a former is at the end of his rope of energy and expertise, and that's all I have to say about that.
Emma writes in her blog about friends who tried to convince her to give up on some of the boys because of their tough words about using Emma as just another scam. After I heard Bibek say that at dinner that night I became quite angry out of my allegiance to Emma. I confess. I am one of those friends that tried to get her to consider just giving up on Bibek. Believe me, my logic was sound. If it's the streets that he wants so badly, and that lifestyle, then it is the streets that he'll get. I will not deprive them. After I shared my thoughts with Emma it was what she does best that drew me to a deeper light of knowledge and then reaffirm her path.
She knows. She just knows. She knows that everyone needs love. It is not a question for her, and that is one of her fundamental beliefs that leads her in the directions that she has taken. Her different projects, activities, protests, writings, relationships, everything that I can't even keep up with and just put under the title of Pamela, Inc. are not attempts to try and express what she is trying to believe in. All of Pamela, Inc. is a natural expression of what she does believe. Like really, genuinely, with full conviction and zero question, believe.
She knows Bibek needs love. More than the streets. She doesn't care about the aesthetic desire for the streets. She knows love is deeper. She knows Bibek is just acting tough. I just didn't want her to be duped, like I felt for a little bit that she was. I feared that she had been simply duped for the last three years, and figured that it's better to cut your losses early. But, she's not duped. Because she knows. She knows Bibek needs love, and doesn't have someone giving that to him. I don't know how she knows, but she does. Everyone. Even tough street kids. You, the one reading this, can't dupe even yourself out of your need for love despite the streets that we all personally run to when most desperate for it. And she knows that.
I almost forgot.
I did forget.
But, it's funny how when you're at the end of your rope in energy and expertise that someone steps in takes over the situation. In an earlier entry I mentioned how the kids lives are compiled together like a bad piece of furniture in an attempt to fill the needs most naturally filled by their parents. I want to retract my harsh, over-critical words. The furniture is not bad. It might have a blind spot, and it might be strangely compiled. But it is not bad. I have seen the furniture in full working form, and despite its strange construction, it holds. The leg is not the arm, and the arm is not the head, but the right parts function at the right times, and that is what counts.
When the older brother stepped in and took over the situation when my resources had become exhausted, and when Emma revealed her thoughts and beliefs to me over the phone (also found in her blog) I can also confess that thoughts of not only inadequacy but also envy of their ability was quick upon me. But I may not be the foot, and I may not be the head, but I'm learning that I don't need to be. Thank goodness. That'd be hard.
Pamela stepped in to do what she does best, and she has the boys back into close to working order. Of course there's the daily issues that rise without fail. Of course they're in a different place than one month ago, and that brings adjustment, but she's there. With them. Because they need her.
And she knows that.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Bangkok, Thailand
Fake out.
Not there.
Despite the fact I'm on a 4 day layover in LA, I will attempt to debrief the past however long since I last exported ideas.
Bangkok Thailand.
As I wrote to a friend earlier: "Apparently the party that has never quite made it to Nepal has gotten stuck in Bangkok." The only idea I had about Bangkok before I went was from the film "The Beach" with Leonardo DiCaprio. One of the first scenes just shows him walking amongst crowds in awe of excitement from all the neon lights and activity going on all around him. It was kind of like that. So I went to the beach.
Koh Chang island. 7 hour bus ride from Bangkok and a half-hour ferry. After talking with numerous travelers I decided this was the one, because it's the most laid back. I was a little over-idealistic about finding an on-the-beach bungalow for a dirt cheap price, because it turns out you get what you pay for. Off the beach you could find one for about $3.5 US. On the beach was starting at about $15 US. Yikers. However, yours truly came through in the pinch when he found a place that had opened only 4 days prior that rented tents on the beach for just under $5 US. No brainer. It was away from all the hype, I had my own beach, and most of the time I was the only one staying there.
For those that want to live on the beach, you should make like the owner of the place, Irish Phil, and just settle down in Thailand. 2 reasons:
-Beach
-Food
I don't know if you know anything about Thai food, but if you don't, please visit your local Thai food restaurant. That should help solve all mysteries surrounding where you can find the best food in Asia. If you prize surfing over food you might consider another country, such as Indonesia, but barring that you probably needn't look further.
I woke up in the morning and watched the sun rise to my left. 12 hours later I would watch the sun set to my right. Amazing. That's what happens when your beach is on the south end of the island, and it's winter where the sun has less range of motion. Or whatever you call it, but I think you get the idea.
Minus a small dabochle on a rented motorbike the second day where I found out the tires weren't quite as sticky as I was counting on, on a curve in the hills, it was completely fantastic. I only had to bear stingy saltwater on my wounds as part of the consequence and deal with the hassle of cleaning and preventing infection. Which I think we safely averted, despite not having an up-to-date immune system on the local scene. But now I think that I can safely say that I'll always carry a piece of Thailand with me. Part of the road that is. In my knee.
The time was much needed. I just walked around my beaches all day, didn't have a phone, and got to debrief the last 4.5 months of my life in Asia. Especially after everything that went down with the 6 boys right before I left. Details at restoredyouth.blogspot.com. and more comments on that to follow. by comments i mean another post.
All to say. I enjoyed the beach. It was about 90 degrees every day. I only brought 2 t-shirts, my shorts, and a book. What more do you need? I have found that ever since I finalized my return trip home from Nepal more than a month ago, there was a definitive pull for life back home. I would not become a resident of Asia. Which is fine. It's funny because within one minute the thoughts can go from longing for home, to looking around you and already missing your current temp-home, and then planning for where you'll go next, which I have some pretty tasty thoughts cooked up on.
But now I'm approaching home. After I finish my 4 day layover in California I will be back in my old stomping grounds enjoying everything that I really love about where I'm from. Especially in the winter. I just realized that I get back the first day of winter. That's appropriate. Now, more finalized thoughts to follow...
Not there.
Despite the fact I'm on a 4 day layover in LA, I will attempt to debrief the past however long since I last exported ideas.
Bangkok Thailand.
As I wrote to a friend earlier: "Apparently the party that has never quite made it to Nepal has gotten stuck in Bangkok." The only idea I had about Bangkok before I went was from the film "The Beach" with Leonardo DiCaprio. One of the first scenes just shows him walking amongst crowds in awe of excitement from all the neon lights and activity going on all around him. It was kind of like that. So I went to the beach.
Koh Chang island. 7 hour bus ride from Bangkok and a half-hour ferry. After talking with numerous travelers I decided this was the one, because it's the most laid back. I was a little over-idealistic about finding an on-the-beach bungalow for a dirt cheap price, because it turns out you get what you pay for. Off the beach you could find one for about $3.5 US. On the beach was starting at about $15 US. Yikers. However, yours truly came through in the pinch when he found a place that had opened only 4 days prior that rented tents on the beach for just under $5 US. No brainer. It was away from all the hype, I had my own beach, and most of the time I was the only one staying there.
For those that want to live on the beach, you should make like the owner of the place, Irish Phil, and just settle down in Thailand. 2 reasons:
-Beach
-Food
I don't know if you know anything about Thai food, but if you don't, please visit your local Thai food restaurant. That should help solve all mysteries surrounding where you can find the best food in Asia. If you prize surfing over food you might consider another country, such as Indonesia, but barring that you probably needn't look further.
I woke up in the morning and watched the sun rise to my left. 12 hours later I would watch the sun set to my right. Amazing. That's what happens when your beach is on the south end of the island, and it's winter where the sun has less range of motion. Or whatever you call it, but I think you get the idea.
Minus a small dabochle on a rented motorbike the second day where I found out the tires weren't quite as sticky as I was counting on, on a curve in the hills, it was completely fantastic. I only had to bear stingy saltwater on my wounds as part of the consequence and deal with the hassle of cleaning and preventing infection. Which I think we safely averted, despite not having an up-to-date immune system on the local scene. But now I think that I can safely say that I'll always carry a piece of Thailand with me. Part of the road that is. In my knee.
The time was much needed. I just walked around my beaches all day, didn't have a phone, and got to debrief the last 4.5 months of my life in Asia. Especially after everything that went down with the 6 boys right before I left. Details at restoredyouth.blogspot.com. and more comments on that to follow. by comments i mean another post.
All to say. I enjoyed the beach. It was about 90 degrees every day. I only brought 2 t-shirts, my shorts, and a book. What more do you need? I have found that ever since I finalized my return trip home from Nepal more than a month ago, there was a definitive pull for life back home. I would not become a resident of Asia. Which is fine. It's funny because within one minute the thoughts can go from longing for home, to looking around you and already missing your current temp-home, and then planning for where you'll go next, which I have some pretty tasty thoughts cooked up on.
But now I'm approaching home. After I finish my 4 day layover in California I will be back in my old stomping grounds enjoying everything that I really love about where I'm from. Especially in the winter. I just realized that I get back the first day of winter. That's appropriate. Now, more finalized thoughts to follow...
Sunday, December 2, 2007
pokhara, nepal
The brief hiatus I took to tromp around the Kumbu region (made famously by the Great One, Mt. Everest) was completely amazing, and an exceptionally good holiday. For 20 days I hiked around, visited high lakes for lunches, summitted Himalayan 'hills' (fair enough, my highest hill was 5,887 meters / 19,261 ft), hiked over hairy passes and just in general viewed what can surely be claimed as the most beautiful mountains in the world.
And you know how much I like mountains. It even snowed one morning.
But today I write with a very heavy heart. The world is apparently not all cakes and ice cream.
I came back to Pokhara not knowing what to expect after receiving a very undetailed, ominous email from Pamela / Emma about the 6 boys. Bear in mind that when I was leaving for Everest my prime concern was finding them an older male who could just be in their life similar to how I have but wouldn't have to leave because of visas, wanting to go home, etc. Essentially, a reliable older male who could teach them values and be in their life continually. My other concern was simply that they do their homework.
And this is what I found.
I will explain in order of each boy.
Tall Saroj claims he wants to go back to his village to take care of his family. I don't believe this quite yet. At least I don't think he wants to right now. Unfortunately, being what is usually the most responsible of the 6 boys he is, perhaps, the least cool and therefore the most needy of friends. I fear that his recent friendships he has made have more than started to lead him down sketchy paths. I have been very uncontrolling with managing where they go at night, as that is more than just an uphill battle, and have merely had strong conversations with them about the importance of who you hang out with having a strong impact on your life. So, that decision is his. I believe that at the end of the day he is trading his home, food, and school for the ability to hang out with these sketchy friends. Like I said, he has a record of being the most responsible, but at the same time, he's a 14-year-old boy. Pamela has been able to manage their finances, their food, their education, and even a pseudo-father figure to be in their life, but how do you manage peers that offer acceptance? And the fact that that one element being the strongest force in their life is mind-boggling, frustrating, and just plain baffling.
Gopal decided that he didn't like the school they were going to, and in usual form at least semi-convinced all the other boys that they should find a Nepali school. I woke him up yesterday at noon at the Busy Bee where was sleeping and has found work. The Busy Bee is probably the most popular tourist bar in Pokhara, where he now sells plane tickets from what I have gathered. To be honest, if he is supporting himself (or has found his own means for support) I respect that and his choice. He seems to be doing well. However, he is always the driver of the bandwagon, and his demands towards a better school have left a ripple effect of independent-thinking/ leaving on the other kids. And he's not even going to Nepali school. Which is free. Frustrating.
San Saroj is back to being the typical street kid. As the dullest out of all of them, I don't think he can think past what he simply knew before of walking around and offering tourists cheap hash. Heartbreaking. A really sweet kid, but needs so much love and encouragement and structure and I'm afraid the streets don't really have a track record for offering those commodities in abundance.
Bibek I have also heard is on the streets. I heard that he is around Lakeside, and I heard that he is there because he doesn't like taking tests. He's quite smart, and even gets good grades. Remember when you complained about homework, and at the most maybe threw a temper tantrum in response? Escaping to the streets of a city probably didn't really cross your mind as a potentially good idea. Especially at the age of 11. Well, welcome to their lives.
Arjun and Dorje from what i can tell wish to remain under room and board and go to school. They are after all, the most naturally intelligent. I really believe it was a matter of time for a couple of the rest, but for these, they see this genuinely as their best opportunity. There's not much more they can bear as their resources have been altered to adjust for the others leaving. So my goal for them is just to offer some stability for a few days, until their normal accomodations become, well, normal, again. Today I asked them why they wanted to go to school and not run away and they just said, "We like to read." Somehow I don't fully buy it, there's some truth in it I'm sure, but I think they understand what they have as being pretty good. I don't know.
To say that my heart was quite heavy this morning was an understatement. To have an almost parting chat with Tall Saroj essentially telling him that I don't care what he does, whether it's study English or make cabinets, that the measure of a man is determined on the choices one makes every day, was more than I anticipated after having left for only three weeks. That's all I have to offer this kid who is deciding a path affecting the rest of his life, possibly heavily influenced by shady friends. Such a good, solid, respectful kid who took care of the rest of the six guys for years might be throwing it all away for the sake of some acceptance. He was often the only one to respect me and my words. But, welcome to 14-years-old. I will not attempt to force these kids into any situation. I will not even offer my opinion. All I am attempting is to show them clearly what decisions they have, what their affect will be, and what is affecting their decisions. So hard to watch them go--
It's funny that regarding the one that found work at the Busy Bee, Gopal, I just hope he does well. I guess I just see a step in maturity and taking accountability for his own life out of him. I don't think school was fully for him, but I just hopes he finds a place of being amongst good people. And makes an honest living. Can you imagine, at 14, choosing to engage in wage-earning from school? Yet, for some of them, it's vying as the best option.
We'll see where it goes from here. On one hand, it's hard to see all this happen right before I leave, but at the same time, if it was going to happen, I'm glad I was here to be there with them through it. Sometimes you just hit a breaking point I guess, and so many of the natural elements that naturally occur in most people's lives have been merely pieced together like a bad piece of furniture for these kids lives. Things like love, support (financial and emotional), consistency, education, all from different, random sources that can only offer a little bit for a little time, all attempting to fill the holes left by those who would most naturally offer it and were most not able to. I have learned that we're all doing the best we can, but I'm also learning about the reality of the world being a harsh, cruel place.
Okay, I'm going to go hunt down Gopal and have an adult chat with him over some chow mein. Since he's entered the adult world now.
And then try to find Bibek.
And you know how much I like mountains. It even snowed one morning.
But today I write with a very heavy heart. The world is apparently not all cakes and ice cream.
I came back to Pokhara not knowing what to expect after receiving a very undetailed, ominous email from Pamela / Emma about the 6 boys. Bear in mind that when I was leaving for Everest my prime concern was finding them an older male who could just be in their life similar to how I have but wouldn't have to leave because of visas, wanting to go home, etc. Essentially, a reliable older male who could teach them values and be in their life continually. My other concern was simply that they do their homework.
And this is what I found.
I will explain in order of each boy.
Tall Saroj claims he wants to go back to his village to take care of his family. I don't believe this quite yet. At least I don't think he wants to right now. Unfortunately, being what is usually the most responsible of the 6 boys he is, perhaps, the least cool and therefore the most needy of friends. I fear that his recent friendships he has made have more than started to lead him down sketchy paths. I have been very uncontrolling with managing where they go at night, as that is more than just an uphill battle, and have merely had strong conversations with them about the importance of who you hang out with having a strong impact on your life. So, that decision is his. I believe that at the end of the day he is trading his home, food, and school for the ability to hang out with these sketchy friends. Like I said, he has a record of being the most responsible, but at the same time, he's a 14-year-old boy. Pamela has been able to manage their finances, their food, their education, and even a pseudo-father figure to be in their life, but how do you manage peers that offer acceptance? And the fact that that one element being the strongest force in their life is mind-boggling, frustrating, and just plain baffling.
Gopal decided that he didn't like the school they were going to, and in usual form at least semi-convinced all the other boys that they should find a Nepali school. I woke him up yesterday at noon at the Busy Bee where was sleeping and has found work. The Busy Bee is probably the most popular tourist bar in Pokhara, where he now sells plane tickets from what I have gathered. To be honest, if he is supporting himself (or has found his own means for support) I respect that and his choice. He seems to be doing well. However, he is always the driver of the bandwagon, and his demands towards a better school have left a ripple effect of independent-thinking/ leaving on the other kids. And he's not even going to Nepali school. Which is free. Frustrating.
San Saroj is back to being the typical street kid. As the dullest out of all of them, I don't think he can think past what he simply knew before of walking around and offering tourists cheap hash. Heartbreaking. A really sweet kid, but needs so much love and encouragement and structure and I'm afraid the streets don't really have a track record for offering those commodities in abundance.
Bibek I have also heard is on the streets. I heard that he is around Lakeside, and I heard that he is there because he doesn't like taking tests. He's quite smart, and even gets good grades. Remember when you complained about homework, and at the most maybe threw a temper tantrum in response? Escaping to the streets of a city probably didn't really cross your mind as a potentially good idea. Especially at the age of 11. Well, welcome to their lives.
Arjun and Dorje from what i can tell wish to remain under room and board and go to school. They are after all, the most naturally intelligent. I really believe it was a matter of time for a couple of the rest, but for these, they see this genuinely as their best opportunity. There's not much more they can bear as their resources have been altered to adjust for the others leaving. So my goal for them is just to offer some stability for a few days, until their normal accomodations become, well, normal, again. Today I asked them why they wanted to go to school and not run away and they just said, "We like to read." Somehow I don't fully buy it, there's some truth in it I'm sure, but I think they understand what they have as being pretty good. I don't know.
To say that my heart was quite heavy this morning was an understatement. To have an almost parting chat with Tall Saroj essentially telling him that I don't care what he does, whether it's study English or make cabinets, that the measure of a man is determined on the choices one makes every day, was more than I anticipated after having left for only three weeks. That's all I have to offer this kid who is deciding a path affecting the rest of his life, possibly heavily influenced by shady friends. Such a good, solid, respectful kid who took care of the rest of the six guys for years might be throwing it all away for the sake of some acceptance. He was often the only one to respect me and my words. But, welcome to 14-years-old. I will not attempt to force these kids into any situation. I will not even offer my opinion. All I am attempting is to show them clearly what decisions they have, what their affect will be, and what is affecting their decisions. So hard to watch them go--
It's funny that regarding the one that found work at the Busy Bee, Gopal, I just hope he does well. I guess I just see a step in maturity and taking accountability for his own life out of him. I don't think school was fully for him, but I just hopes he finds a place of being amongst good people. And makes an honest living. Can you imagine, at 14, choosing to engage in wage-earning from school? Yet, for some of them, it's vying as the best option.
We'll see where it goes from here. On one hand, it's hard to see all this happen right before I leave, but at the same time, if it was going to happen, I'm glad I was here to be there with them through it. Sometimes you just hit a breaking point I guess, and so many of the natural elements that naturally occur in most people's lives have been merely pieced together like a bad piece of furniture for these kids lives. Things like love, support (financial and emotional), consistency, education, all from different, random sources that can only offer a little bit for a little time, all attempting to fill the holes left by those who would most naturally offer it and were most not able to. I have learned that we're all doing the best we can, but I'm also learning about the reality of the world being a harsh, cruel place.
Okay, I'm going to go hunt down Gopal and have an adult chat with him over some chow mein. Since he's entered the adult world now.
And then try to find Bibek.
Thursday, November 1, 2007
astam, nepal
kancha coming at you---
Apparently that's my Nepali name. It is actually a common name meaning "small brother." Everyone here refers to each other as Dai (older brother) Bai (younger brother), Didi (older sister) and Bahini (younger sister), but because you can have several Dai's Bai's etc. Kancha gets at least a little more specific (referring to size). It was given to me by the Austrian couple's trekking guide somewhere between Machhapuchare base camp and Annapurna base camp. but i digress.
So, while on one hand I was sad to miss Halloween and all the kids who will succumb to wearing ridiculous clothes as long as they get candy (Seinfeld), I was able to celebrate the fall harvest festival not just Nepali style (mind you they don't actually celebrate it here), but with its semi-original intent (I think, correct me if I'm wrong though). I harvested.
This took place in the village of Astam where the Indian's (dot not the feather) trekking guide that I met on my trek lived. It involved a half hour bus ride out of Pokhara, and an hour hike, nearly straight uphill it seemed. Since he wasn't with me, and I just knew his village name, once I got to the village I just started asking everyone for "Shiva, tulo kapal (long hair), trekking guide" and eventually found his family's abode. His house and village sit atop a Himal with incredible views. The first day we just chilled, and day two involved gathering all their cut hay in their field, packing it up with rope made on the spot from the hay, and then carrying it down from their field to their house. I really enjoyed the work and helping out, and actually living the reality of their life if only for a couple of days. Here's the good/bad of the situation-
Recently I became a little disenchanted about living in the city of Pokhara. I mean, just for your personal perspective Kathmandu is Denver, and Pokhara is Boulder. Kat- Dallas, Pok- Austin. Comprende? So Pokhara being slower and more laid back is muy bueno for me, but after a conversation with a Polish and a German gal who work for the UN I started seeing a different shade of green in the grass. Their work consisted of living in a rural village and communicating what the UN wanted to communicate to the people of Nepal. Namely regarding the politics of Nepal, and to then encourage their action, that being voting. After this conversation and hearing about their daily life I was like, "I came to a third world country, but I still live where internet and taxis are still accessible. I wonder what it's like out there." Well I found it.
There's no cars, some people may not have even seen them before, although most have. Everything is transported by foot (ps- apparently 70% of goods are transported by foot in Nepal [porters]), and it's the life a farmer. Their house is one room essentially, with the loft used for storage. The father, mother, son, daughter, daughter's daughter, another son's daughter and son all sleep in the same room/ house. They cook food over a single wood fire. But, no Shiner, so it's not a proper barbeque. They grow their own rice, have their own buffaloes, chickens, etc. Everyone is nearly related. Almost no one has income. Where there is income, the average pay is probably $5 a day. It's all asset based. You feed yourself, maybe trade; there is some currency flowing through, but not much. The people are happy, everyone obviously knows everyone (since they're related), and you just do things as you can and as they come. There's no rush, but if you don't work it's very obvious you don't eat. Children are labor. Kancha II carried his first packaged bundle of hay on his head as all Nepalis do. He's probably 8. Everyone was helping with the harvest, young to old.
Here's the rub. I saw them getting along fine, I mean, poor, but fine. I enjoyed staying with them. People is people to me. We all smile and we all cry. But, like many Nepalis they see me as opportunity. The list of things requested from me in this 2 days is endless: money to paint their house, money to finish building their toilet (outhouse), to somehow get Shiva a visa and plane trip to America(!) (they're all convinced that life is a beach party there), to take the 8 year-old to America with me, or at least to Pokhara(!), new school bags, to teach in their local school, to stay longer to as an extra working hand, and I kid you not, there was even insinuation to take their 25-year-old widowed daughter's hand in marriage (with a 3-year-old daughter as part of the package deal). I don't know, she was beautiful... and I have contemplated living a simple farming life...
This is not a request, nor a statement towards my new found direction in life (for those that can't discern my sarcasm via written word). This is just information. All of these things were mentioned at least more than twice. Of course each time it made me feel a little awkward, and I have been in Nepal long enough to see it coming, but not this strong. The reason I tell you is just to tell you of the condition. I'm quite sure this is quite a typical Nepali family. It's funny how I wanted to see it, but part of the 2-day experience was frustration of being asked for so much. At the very end, when the proposals were strong, all I could say was "I really do have to go, I genuninely don't have the means to help you, I wish I did," and leave. Several times when I was staying with them I would hear them ask in Nepali to the guide, Shiva, "Is he going to give us money?" 'I'm a simple guy, and I want to hang out with you, but this really makes it hard for me-' is what I would have liked to say. Throw a huge language barrier into the picture (Shiva's English is far below par, and I've only been here like 6 weeks), and getting a whole idea across was quite difficult. That being- "I can't help you renovate your whole house and revolutionize your community and bring stability and additional workforce to your family by marrying your daughter, but if Shiva is able to scrape up about $3000US(!) to come to America I will make him feel as at home as you have made me feel." Somehow I wasn't able to say that in Nepali.
I'm going to be honest. I was a bit bemused walking away. I mean, the children were clinging to me. Not out of love, but out of opportunity. The more I walked away the stronger and smaller the requests became. Finally I gave in when the daughter I'm supposed to marry (dad- I think maybe we can get a couple buffalo and maybe a goat or two out of the deal) asked for 20 rupees (about 35cents) for biscuits for her child. Walking back down the mountain I had to stop several times just to be like, "is this selfish? should i go back and pour out my wallet to them?" And, just resorted to getting back to my room in Pokhara to try and sort out my heart and mind. If any of you ever figure this dilemma in life out, shoot me a text to tell me what's up.
More honesty- part of the dilemma is that I didn't see it as bad. It's life. They're not starving, and they're government's not perfect but it's not oppressive. It's just very much not able to help anyone. You sow your seeds, you reap them, you eat. Sure we've complicated things with our intricate social infrastructure in America, and I'm not growing my own corn, but is it really any different? I mean, we're all just trying to live, we're all struggling. We all spend money on frivolity (they had a tv and dvd player- 2 things I don't own). The first day I told Shiva that people where I come from would pay a lot of money to live where he lived and be that removed from distraction. I mean, there are some people that even have to live in Houston. About 3 million I think. These Nepalis are very in tune with the earth's cycles and respond accordingly, I think that's beautiful and that we've lost a lot of that in our concrete jungles. They are very well alive, and moreso, have all of their friends and family around them. But, my friends, I guess they're not content. And at the end of the day, I don't care who you are, or where you were born, or what you do, that's what you need.
There's always more that I will desire I'm sure. For now, if anyone's looking to get rid of a set of tele gear or a Jeep, I think I can help you out. But, that's not reality right now. Now, let's be more honest, tele gear isn't exactly indoor plumbing, but I guess my simple point is that there's always more, I don't care who you are. I'm not flashy with my money- I haven't even worn my steezy Nixon watch once in Nepal (partly because Tony Hawk's voice chiming for the hour drains the battery in about a one-week-flash), and I just about can't afford all the batteries required. My camera is the most valuable things I may be seen with, and that's rare that I'll bring it into the open. But I'm a tourist, and tourists mean money. Yes, my budget here is right around what the average person makes a day, but that's that. I still take the bus and not taxis, and drink tea and not fruity expensive drinks. One thing I tell so many Nepali people that actually lend an ear is that, "you think America perfect. America have many problems. Nepal have many problems. Same. Same. People struggle for food in America, I promise." While I know that life is seemingly easier in America, all I want people everywhere to see is that we're all people. We all struggle, we all claim victory, we all have the capacity to love or to hate, to help or to hurt, and one of the most beautiful gifts we have is the gift of choice based on those aforementioned. And it is our choices based on the cards we are dealt that makes life what it is. Yes, I may have access to health insurance, but does that really make the days I own more fulfilling?
I need to stop ranting. All this word vomit just means I haven't figured it out in case you didn't already realize that. All this from 2 days in one of the most beautiful places I have ever woken up to, confronted by one of the most difficult situations I have ever woken up to. But guess what? That's life.
Apparently that's my Nepali name. It is actually a common name meaning "small brother." Everyone here refers to each other as Dai (older brother) Bai (younger brother), Didi (older sister) and Bahini (younger sister), but because you can have several Dai's Bai's etc. Kancha gets at least a little more specific (referring to size). It was given to me by the Austrian couple's trekking guide somewhere between Machhapuchare base camp and Annapurna base camp. but i digress.
So, while on one hand I was sad to miss Halloween and all the kids who will succumb to wearing ridiculous clothes as long as they get candy (Seinfeld), I was able to celebrate the fall harvest festival not just Nepali style (mind you they don't actually celebrate it here), but with its semi-original intent (I think, correct me if I'm wrong though). I harvested.
This took place in the village of Astam where the Indian's (dot not the feather) trekking guide that I met on my trek lived. It involved a half hour bus ride out of Pokhara, and an hour hike, nearly straight uphill it seemed. Since he wasn't with me, and I just knew his village name, once I got to the village I just started asking everyone for "Shiva, tulo kapal (long hair), trekking guide" and eventually found his family's abode. His house and village sit atop a Himal with incredible views. The first day we just chilled, and day two involved gathering all their cut hay in their field, packing it up with rope made on the spot from the hay, and then carrying it down from their field to their house. I really enjoyed the work and helping out, and actually living the reality of their life if only for a couple of days. Here's the good/bad of the situation-
Recently I became a little disenchanted about living in the city of Pokhara. I mean, just for your personal perspective Kathmandu is Denver, and Pokhara is Boulder. Kat- Dallas, Pok- Austin. Comprende? So Pokhara being slower and more laid back is muy bueno for me, but after a conversation with a Polish and a German gal who work for the UN I started seeing a different shade of green in the grass. Their work consisted of living in a rural village and communicating what the UN wanted to communicate to the people of Nepal. Namely regarding the politics of Nepal, and to then encourage their action, that being voting. After this conversation and hearing about their daily life I was like, "I came to a third world country, but I still live where internet and taxis are still accessible. I wonder what it's like out there." Well I found it.
There's no cars, some people may not have even seen them before, although most have. Everything is transported by foot (ps- apparently 70% of goods are transported by foot in Nepal [porters]), and it's the life a farmer. Their house is one room essentially, with the loft used for storage. The father, mother, son, daughter, daughter's daughter, another son's daughter and son all sleep in the same room/ house. They cook food over a single wood fire. But, no Shiner, so it's not a proper barbeque. They grow their own rice, have their own buffaloes, chickens, etc. Everyone is nearly related. Almost no one has income. Where there is income, the average pay is probably $5 a day. It's all asset based. You feed yourself, maybe trade; there is some currency flowing through, but not much. The people are happy, everyone obviously knows everyone (since they're related), and you just do things as you can and as they come. There's no rush, but if you don't work it's very obvious you don't eat. Children are labor. Kancha II carried his first packaged bundle of hay on his head as all Nepalis do. He's probably 8. Everyone was helping with the harvest, young to old.
Here's the rub. I saw them getting along fine, I mean, poor, but fine. I enjoyed staying with them. People is people to me. We all smile and we all cry. But, like many Nepalis they see me as opportunity. The list of things requested from me in this 2 days is endless: money to paint their house, money to finish building their toilet (outhouse), to somehow get Shiva a visa and plane trip to America(!) (they're all convinced that life is a beach party there), to take the 8 year-old to America with me, or at least to Pokhara(!), new school bags, to teach in their local school, to stay longer to as an extra working hand, and I kid you not, there was even insinuation to take their 25-year-old widowed daughter's hand in marriage (with a 3-year-old daughter as part of the package deal). I don't know, she was beautiful... and I have contemplated living a simple farming life...
This is not a request, nor a statement towards my new found direction in life (for those that can't discern my sarcasm via written word). This is just information. All of these things were mentioned at least more than twice. Of course each time it made me feel a little awkward, and I have been in Nepal long enough to see it coming, but not this strong. The reason I tell you is just to tell you of the condition. I'm quite sure this is quite a typical Nepali family. It's funny how I wanted to see it, but part of the 2-day experience was frustration of being asked for so much. At the very end, when the proposals were strong, all I could say was "I really do have to go, I genuninely don't have the means to help you, I wish I did," and leave. Several times when I was staying with them I would hear them ask in Nepali to the guide, Shiva, "Is he going to give us money?" 'I'm a simple guy, and I want to hang out with you, but this really makes it hard for me-' is what I would have liked to say. Throw a huge language barrier into the picture (Shiva's English is far below par, and I've only been here like 6 weeks), and getting a whole idea across was quite difficult. That being- "I can't help you renovate your whole house and revolutionize your community and bring stability and additional workforce to your family by marrying your daughter, but if Shiva is able to scrape up about $3000US(!) to come to America I will make him feel as at home as you have made me feel." Somehow I wasn't able to say that in Nepali.
I'm going to be honest. I was a bit bemused walking away. I mean, the children were clinging to me. Not out of love, but out of opportunity. The more I walked away the stronger and smaller the requests became. Finally I gave in when the daughter I'm supposed to marry (dad- I think maybe we can get a couple buffalo and maybe a goat or two out of the deal) asked for 20 rupees (about 35cents) for biscuits for her child. Walking back down the mountain I had to stop several times just to be like, "is this selfish? should i go back and pour out my wallet to them?" And, just resorted to getting back to my room in Pokhara to try and sort out my heart and mind. If any of you ever figure this dilemma in life out, shoot me a text to tell me what's up.
More honesty- part of the dilemma is that I didn't see it as bad. It's life. They're not starving, and they're government's not perfect but it's not oppressive. It's just very much not able to help anyone. You sow your seeds, you reap them, you eat. Sure we've complicated things with our intricate social infrastructure in America, and I'm not growing my own corn, but is it really any different? I mean, we're all just trying to live, we're all struggling. We all spend money on frivolity (they had a tv and dvd player- 2 things I don't own). The first day I told Shiva that people where I come from would pay a lot of money to live where he lived and be that removed from distraction. I mean, there are some people that even have to live in Houston. About 3 million I think. These Nepalis are very in tune with the earth's cycles and respond accordingly, I think that's beautiful and that we've lost a lot of that in our concrete jungles. They are very well alive, and moreso, have all of their friends and family around them. But, my friends, I guess they're not content. And at the end of the day, I don't care who you are, or where you were born, or what you do, that's what you need.
There's always more that I will desire I'm sure. For now, if anyone's looking to get rid of a set of tele gear or a Jeep, I think I can help you out. But, that's not reality right now. Now, let's be more honest, tele gear isn't exactly indoor plumbing, but I guess my simple point is that there's always more, I don't care who you are. I'm not flashy with my money- I haven't even worn my steezy Nixon watch once in Nepal (partly because Tony Hawk's voice chiming for the hour drains the battery in about a one-week-flash), and I just about can't afford all the batteries required. My camera is the most valuable things I may be seen with, and that's rare that I'll bring it into the open. But I'm a tourist, and tourists mean money. Yes, my budget here is right around what the average person makes a day, but that's that. I still take the bus and not taxis, and drink tea and not fruity expensive drinks. One thing I tell so many Nepali people that actually lend an ear is that, "you think America perfect. America have many problems. Nepal have many problems. Same. Same. People struggle for food in America, I promise." While I know that life is seemingly easier in America, all I want people everywhere to see is that we're all people. We all struggle, we all claim victory, we all have the capacity to love or to hate, to help or to hurt, and one of the most beautiful gifts we have is the gift of choice based on those aforementioned. And it is our choices based on the cards we are dealt that makes life what it is. Yes, I may have access to health insurance, but does that really make the days I own more fulfilling?
I need to stop ranting. All this word vomit just means I haven't figured it out in case you didn't already realize that. All this from 2 days in one of the most beautiful places I have ever woken up to, confronted by one of the most difficult situations I have ever woken up to. But guess what? That's life.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
pokhara, nepal
hello friends.
i wish i could fully explain how happy the mountains make me. some of you are clued into this. let me try to offer you the highlight- i woke up at 5:00am (an hour later than hoped) to watch the remainder of the forecasted meteor shower. I walked outside my room of the teahouse I was staying at situated at the base camp of Mount Annapurna (South and I, there's actually 5 of them) at roughly 14,000 ft. altitude. After watching about one meteor a minute on a perfectly clear night, the sun started to rise. What this means in the Himalayas is that the tops of the mountains are seemingly lit on fire with what only the Germans have found an appropriate name for, "alpenglow." Maybe the Austrians said it first, that would make more sense.
I got my morning cup of coffee and had one of the most spectacular surveys of the world ever, in a valley surrounded by 20,000m+ peaks standing on fresh snow from the night before. I love snow.
Snow. Mountains. I was the last person to leave the base camp and head back down I'm pretty sure. All the other people I guess were in a rush to head back down to reality and pollution. Once the clouds rolled in, I decided it was a good time to jet and we made our way down mountains that US wise most closely resemble the Smoky Mountains. So, in one day you can walk from a height higher than any of the Rockies in Colorado, to an environment only found in southern mountains verging on tropical. Amazing.
When I say, "we" I mean I was joined by one of the little homies I'm taking care of, Soraj. He was the only of the 6 that did not want to visit his home for the holiday season we're in right now, so I took him trekking instead. Here's the problem with Nepalis and the mountains. They're really good at it, but they see no point. They think goras (white people) are stupid for trekking, and can't understand why we do it, because if they walk in the mountains it's because they have to (either work or transportation). But, Soraj did amazingly well and had a great attitude. And, I'm pretty sure that he's now the only Pokhara city kid that knows how to read a topographical map. Which I assure was a struggle each morning as he didn't even have a grasp on the concept of altitude or direction. But, now, he can manage a topo map. Hooray. Success.
Moreso, since I don't know when I'll get to write next I'll go ahead and indulge on this: I have discovered that looking after 6 teenage boys who are essentially orphaned (by their own choice, mainly avoiding not-good family situations) that have grown up on the street isn't exactly Candyland or Chutes and Ladders. If anything it's like playing Risk with the really crafty manipulative friend that we all have. I want to say "unfortunately," but really it's just the reality of the situation that the role I have to fill has been about 90% discipline. Maybe my standards are too high. My standards that I hold in their life in any encounter we have are as follows:
1.don't lie
2.don't steal
3.do your homework
This consumes over 90% of my time with them as I have already mentioned. Here's more of the issue. They have roughly 546 mothers around them. The women who pay their school, their teachers, their cook-lady. But not one dude. Except yours truly. They are fed, schooled, and taken care of, but apparently, not consistenly held accountable or challenged. Yikers. This is not what I had in mind, but kay gar ni (what do do)? The really frustrating part is that I'm attempting to fill a role in their life left not only void, but with negative impact, roughly 14 years too late. Add in the enjoyable surge of hormones of a teenager and it leads to a pretty interesting mezcla of issues.
I have hesitated to post this, since I didn't want to 1.sound like I'm complaining 2. make the kids look bad in any way, but I figure only the people who really care are looking at this anyway. It's tough, but good. Everyday is a new issue with a new kid. I suppose every given day some issue arises birthed of of simply those three standards above that I hold. Homework is the most annoying one I have to deal with, probably because I wasn't exactly the homework king in my day. But, I never scored 0 out of 20 on a math exam which is why I started holding that standard for them. But I digress.
Believe me. I am wide eyed looking for a person who can fill my role after I leave. Basically a loving, consistent, male who is smarter and stronger than them who can teach and encourage them. This is my dilemma. This is why I haven't decided when I'm coming home. Because all this work I am doing now will easily vanish without the void being replaced. I look at all the Nepali guys I see around, and zero feasible candidates have been presented. It's a bit frustrating. ps- I have barely even tapped into the issues I have hoped to tap into with young males, as I'm still trying to clear the basics that are wiped out at the age of 4.
So, there you have it. There's the reality of the situation. But the thing that keeps me going is realizing that the amount of energy and frustration and effort I am forced to put into these kids is simply the balance of the amount that they need it, and haven't received it. Believe me, somedays a quick flight home is really attractive, but in the long run, it just seems to keep getting delayed.
I'll keep you posted. but now you know.
i wish i could fully explain how happy the mountains make me. some of you are clued into this. let me try to offer you the highlight- i woke up at 5:00am (an hour later than hoped) to watch the remainder of the forecasted meteor shower. I walked outside my room of the teahouse I was staying at situated at the base camp of Mount Annapurna (South and I, there's actually 5 of them) at roughly 14,000 ft. altitude. After watching about one meteor a minute on a perfectly clear night, the sun started to rise. What this means in the Himalayas is that the tops of the mountains are seemingly lit on fire with what only the Germans have found an appropriate name for, "alpenglow." Maybe the Austrians said it first, that would make more sense.
I got my morning cup of coffee and had one of the most spectacular surveys of the world ever, in a valley surrounded by 20,000m+ peaks standing on fresh snow from the night before. I love snow.
Snow. Mountains. I was the last person to leave the base camp and head back down I'm pretty sure. All the other people I guess were in a rush to head back down to reality and pollution. Once the clouds rolled in, I decided it was a good time to jet and we made our way down mountains that US wise most closely resemble the Smoky Mountains. So, in one day you can walk from a height higher than any of the Rockies in Colorado, to an environment only found in southern mountains verging on tropical. Amazing.
When I say, "we" I mean I was joined by one of the little homies I'm taking care of, Soraj. He was the only of the 6 that did not want to visit his home for the holiday season we're in right now, so I took him trekking instead. Here's the problem with Nepalis and the mountains. They're really good at it, but they see no point. They think goras (white people) are stupid for trekking, and can't understand why we do it, because if they walk in the mountains it's because they have to (either work or transportation). But, Soraj did amazingly well and had a great attitude. And, I'm pretty sure that he's now the only Pokhara city kid that knows how to read a topographical map. Which I assure was a struggle each morning as he didn't even have a grasp on the concept of altitude or direction. But, now, he can manage a topo map. Hooray. Success.
Moreso, since I don't know when I'll get to write next I'll go ahead and indulge on this: I have discovered that looking after 6 teenage boys who are essentially orphaned (by their own choice, mainly avoiding not-good family situations) that have grown up on the street isn't exactly Candyland or Chutes and Ladders. If anything it's like playing Risk with the really crafty manipulative friend that we all have. I want to say "unfortunately," but really it's just the reality of the situation that the role I have to fill has been about 90% discipline. Maybe my standards are too high. My standards that I hold in their life in any encounter we have are as follows:
1.don't lie
2.don't steal
3.do your homework
This consumes over 90% of my time with them as I have already mentioned. Here's more of the issue. They have roughly 546 mothers around them. The women who pay their school, their teachers, their cook-lady. But not one dude. Except yours truly. They are fed, schooled, and taken care of, but apparently, not consistenly held accountable or challenged. Yikers. This is not what I had in mind, but kay gar ni (what do do)? The really frustrating part is that I'm attempting to fill a role in their life left not only void, but with negative impact, roughly 14 years too late. Add in the enjoyable surge of hormones of a teenager and it leads to a pretty interesting mezcla of issues.
I have hesitated to post this, since I didn't want to 1.sound like I'm complaining 2. make the kids look bad in any way, but I figure only the people who really care are looking at this anyway. It's tough, but good. Everyday is a new issue with a new kid. I suppose every given day some issue arises birthed of of simply those three standards above that I hold. Homework is the most annoying one I have to deal with, probably because I wasn't exactly the homework king in my day. But, I never scored 0 out of 20 on a math exam which is why I started holding that standard for them. But I digress.
Believe me. I am wide eyed looking for a person who can fill my role after I leave. Basically a loving, consistent, male who is smarter and stronger than them who can teach and encourage them. This is my dilemma. This is why I haven't decided when I'm coming home. Because all this work I am doing now will easily vanish without the void being replaced. I look at all the Nepali guys I see around, and zero feasible candidates have been presented. It's a bit frustrating. ps- I have barely even tapped into the issues I have hoped to tap into with young males, as I'm still trying to clear the basics that are wiped out at the age of 4.
So, there you have it. There's the reality of the situation. But the thing that keeps me going is realizing that the amount of energy and frustration and effort I am forced to put into these kids is simply the balance of the amount that they need it, and haven't received it. Believe me, somedays a quick flight home is really attractive, but in the long run, it just seems to keep getting delayed.
I'll keep you posted. but now you know.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Sunday, October 7, 2007
pokhara, nepal
hooray.
pictures.
Like I said, I'm not able to download pictures in internet cafes because the computers and connections are too slow. Which is where my new friend Kelly from Delaware comes into play. I needed a computer, and what do you know, she needed a usb cable- oh, the beauty of living in community and combining resources.
So, the pointy mountain is what I look at every day for my "morning survery of the world."
The nice sunset is at a restaurant on the lake (Fewa Tal) here in Pokhara.
The youngun with the guitar is the littlest homie, Bibek.
The kids that look like they just got out of school are some of my students. The boy student standing with his teacher is affectionately referred to as "Mr. Bean" by not just the students, but the teachers and principal as well. The girl is Pushpa.
The guy who looks like he's trying to play teacher by throwing on his nice white collared shirt and khaki pants is yours truly.
and he teaches at the school shown in the photo. Small school, but it does the trick. Except for misspelling "foundation" on the entrance gate.
Enjoy.
more to come.
*uhhh- kelly has to go now, so i'll post the rest of the pictures tomorrow. ps i'm doing this at the only cafe in lakeside with wireless. because emma and i convinced the owner to get wireless 2 weeks ago. actually it was mostly emma, but i want some credit too.
Friday, September 28, 2007
pokhara, nepal
dear friends.
i apologize.
it's been too long.
My typical daily schedule here in Nepal:
8:30 - wake up, go downstairs to where Kamala is preparing our morning daal bhat, and make myself my cup of coffee. I then head upstairs with my coffee to the roof terrace to have my morning "survey of the world" looking at the my mountains (Himal) for these few months (see pic above), if it is not raining. ps- I took the picture during a "monsoon season-is-over fake out." It's not over. Hopefully soon though. The pointy peak in the pic is Machupuchhre (aka Fishtail), and the other peaks are one of 1-5 Annapurnas.
9:15 - Eat daal bhat. This is what all Nepalis eat. Twice a day. Kamala, is a neighbor / cook for the family I am staying with. Don't worry, there's a driver too. Did I mention I'm staying with a high society family here in Pokhara? Life's rough. My room and bed are bigger and nicer than my place back in Boulder. So much for fully engaging with a country that 40% of the people live below the poverty line. That's not entirely true, though, more to follow. ps- I got this fierce infection from an ingrown fingernail in my thumb. Good thing the brother and father of the family I am staying with own a pharmacy. Good thing the surgeon is attached to their pharmacy. Why good thing? When I asked how much I owed the doctor for my minor surgery (locals / scalpel / all on some newspaper with a reading lamp on a table), he said, "You are a friend of theirs. No charge." Uhhhh. okay. And when I asked how much I owed for the antibiotics, a similar reply of, "You are our guest." No charge, fair enough. In the ski industry under such circumstances you hook your technician up with with a 6 pack of good local brew. I'm not quite sure that beer is the appropriate answer in this case, however.
10:00 - arrive at school (Gandaki WOCAS school) with the bhidyahtis (students) who take well to me, and the principal who is not quite sure. I can't tell if she likes me, simply because Nepalis are overly kind to guests, especially foreign guests. But I think she has a certain distaste. Good thing I'm getting paid. Oh wait---
I teach 2 English classes, and one science class. It's difficult, because it's an English medium school (they supposedly learn in English), but if they are still learning English, how are they to learn science in a language they do not know? Malai thaha china (I don't know). It's quite a challenge. But, I have learned that I really enjoy teaching. Good thing, because otherwise I would jump out of the window sometimes.
12:30 - leave school, change clothes and head either to Mahandrepul or Lakeside where I type at people (such as now), and / or read at my local cafes. But, apparently I have plenty of time to read while waiting for new pages to load on these jurassic computrons. I just finished The Brothers Karamazov by Dostoevsky (highly recommended), and am now reading the autobiography or "The Story of My Experiments with Truth" written by Ghandi. Interesting. I still plan on eating meat despite his experiments in dietics. Sorry, I have Kansas farming blood in me.
5:00ish - Leave aforementioned places and head to the home of the six boys I'm trying to give some older male influence to for the first time in their lives. Usually I have a little bit of reprimanding (since I am also their teacher), and then some physical reprimanding via wrestling, or help (and much encouragement) with their homework. More on this to follow.
8:30 - Eat evening daal bhat with Kamala Bahini and Varsa Didi (Pamela's friend, my connection to my accomodations). Maybe even watch Prushant Tamang win freaking Indian Idol. ps - he's Nepali, so we were all quite stoked when he beat the Indian fellow.
10:00 go to bed. Not much else to do. Sometimes I have an evening survey of the world, with Santosh, Kamala's brother, who also lives next to us.
So, that's how it is right now. This schedule will apply for the next two weeks until the Nepali "Christmas" happens for a month. Maybe it's more like summer break, I can't figure it out. ps- the students, and teachers for that matter, have to go to school 6 days a week. I'm considering writing the UN about this violation of human rights. pps- I have never seen so many UN vehicles in my life, as there are around here.
And friends, enjoy the picture below. I did. I took it at a cafe on the water in Lakeside (the tourist area I go to at least once a week for my "white fix").
Peace.
sorry. apparently pictures can't load on these computers. "you mean the files are in there?" -Zoolander. hopefully soon I'll get them up.
i apologize.
it's been too long.
My typical daily schedule here in Nepal:
8:30 - wake up, go downstairs to where Kamala is preparing our morning daal bhat, and make myself my cup of coffee. I then head upstairs with my coffee to the roof terrace to have my morning "survey of the world" looking at the my mountains (Himal) for these few months (see pic above), if it is not raining. ps- I took the picture during a "monsoon season-is-over fake out." It's not over. Hopefully soon though. The pointy peak in the pic is Machupuchhre (aka Fishtail), and the other peaks are one of 1-5 Annapurnas.
9:15 - Eat daal bhat. This is what all Nepalis eat. Twice a day. Kamala, is a neighbor / cook for the family I am staying with. Don't worry, there's a driver too. Did I mention I'm staying with a high society family here in Pokhara? Life's rough. My room and bed are bigger and nicer than my place back in Boulder. So much for fully engaging with a country that 40% of the people live below the poverty line. That's not entirely true, though, more to follow. ps- I got this fierce infection from an ingrown fingernail in my thumb. Good thing the brother and father of the family I am staying with own a pharmacy. Good thing the surgeon is attached to their pharmacy. Why good thing? When I asked how much I owed the doctor for my minor surgery (locals / scalpel / all on some newspaper with a reading lamp on a table), he said, "You are a friend of theirs. No charge." Uhhhh. okay. And when I asked how much I owed for the antibiotics, a similar reply of, "You are our guest." No charge, fair enough. In the ski industry under such circumstances you hook your technician up with with a 6 pack of good local brew. I'm not quite sure that beer is the appropriate answer in this case, however.
10:00 - arrive at school (Gandaki WOCAS school) with the bhidyahtis (students) who take well to me, and the principal who is not quite sure. I can't tell if she likes me, simply because Nepalis are overly kind to guests, especially foreign guests. But I think she has a certain distaste. Good thing I'm getting paid. Oh wait---
I teach 2 English classes, and one science class. It's difficult, because it's an English medium school (they supposedly learn in English), but if they are still learning English, how are they to learn science in a language they do not know? Malai thaha china (I don't know). It's quite a challenge. But, I have learned that I really enjoy teaching. Good thing, because otherwise I would jump out of the window sometimes.
12:30 - leave school, change clothes and head either to Mahandrepul or Lakeside where I type at people (such as now), and / or read at my local cafes. But, apparently I have plenty of time to read while waiting for new pages to load on these jurassic computrons. I just finished The Brothers Karamazov by Dostoevsky (highly recommended), and am now reading the autobiography or "The Story of My Experiments with Truth" written by Ghandi. Interesting. I still plan on eating meat despite his experiments in dietics. Sorry, I have Kansas farming blood in me.
5:00ish - Leave aforementioned places and head to the home of the six boys I'm trying to give some older male influence to for the first time in their lives. Usually I have a little bit of reprimanding (since I am also their teacher), and then some physical reprimanding via wrestling, or help (and much encouragement) with their homework. More on this to follow.
8:30 - Eat evening daal bhat with Kamala Bahini and Varsa Didi (Pamela's friend, my connection to my accomodations). Maybe even watch Prushant Tamang win freaking Indian Idol. ps - he's Nepali, so we were all quite stoked when he beat the Indian fellow.
10:00 go to bed. Not much else to do. Sometimes I have an evening survey of the world, with Santosh, Kamala's brother, who also lives next to us.
So, that's how it is right now. This schedule will apply for the next two weeks until the Nepali "Christmas" happens for a month. Maybe it's more like summer break, I can't figure it out. ps- the students, and teachers for that matter, have to go to school 6 days a week. I'm considering writing the UN about this violation of human rights. pps- I have never seen so many UN vehicles in my life, as there are around here.
And friends, enjoy the picture below. I did. I took it at a cafe on the water in Lakeside (the tourist area I go to at least once a week for my "white fix").
Peace.
sorry. apparently pictures can't load on these computers. "you mean the files are in there?" -Zoolander. hopefully soon I'll get them up.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
pokhara, nepal
true. i have indeed made it to my destination. i will write about it soon. but first, this should actually be titled, "everything i've wanted to say for one month, but haven't been able to."
ps- if you're chinese, or have chinese friends, which you probably do, understand this has not to do with the specific people (for I did find some very helpful chinese people) but moreso the government etc.
okay. where to start.
i realized once that the chinese government is like a very bad father. he has too many kids to be able to take care of them properly, but insists on having more due to its drunken lust for power. because of this drive for power, it is afraid to afford any of its kids their own individuality. so, it forms a grid that everyone must exist in. what houses they can live in, what jobs they can have, etc. by the way, this is called communism (which it denies that it is). this father attempts 'freedom' by starting a voting election. it only goes so far, however, when there's only one political party. it's like when henry ford back in the day said, "people can pick any color for their new automobile. As long as its black." well, what you drive and who runs your country are on two slightly different levels. Because China has more people than it knows what to do with, and because they don't allow freedom in the market, they have to create jobs. These created jobs mean to do one thing, 5 people are necessary making any government practice (i.e. getting a visa), completely inefficient and last about 10 times longer than is necessary. Thanks China.
i was unable to see my blog for a whole month. china is very particular with what internet sites it lets its people see. china has shaky relations with "google," it doesn't want google, but realizes that it can't really do anything without them. this angers the bad father. but, even though my blogger is through google, china bans that. Sometimes when you're surfing the internet, a little pop-up window appears, and that means that the Chinese government is watching you at the very moment. If you're wondering more about this structure of government, try reading a novel titled 1984 by George Orwell. many times you cannot get onto the website that you want, because china is very afraid. You can't get a Lonely Planet (the most popular tourist guide in the world) of China or Tibet, because they say things that are true that China doesn't want people to know. Thanks China.
North Korea. Ooh. China really hates this one. The school I stayed at in China is a front for projects that run in North Korea. In the school we couldn't talk out loud about North Korea, because people, Chinese government people, are listening. background: North Korea is probably the most oppressive situation in the world right now complete with concentration camps and actual brainwashing. i.e. If you have a house in North Korea, you must have a picture of the present leader, and his father, and if they are dirty or broken, you can be sent to one of these camps. So, people try to flee NK because it is bad. These are called refugees. If China catches a refugee, they will send them back to NK, where they and their family for 3 generations spread, will be sent to a camp. They do this because it is illegal for a NK citizen to be in China. (uhhh, that's why the UN acknowledges 'refugee' situations. China does not comply with this however, they are angry that these foreign people are in their country. China knows that if these NK refugees make it into a South Korea embassy in China, they will be freed from the tyranny by being given South Korea citizenship (South Korea is semi-reluctantly empathetic to the NK situation), but the Chinese prefer to catch them and send them back to NK. There is video of people running past guards (similar to capture the flag) at the South Korea embassy so that they can be freed, and the guards tackling them to arrest them. ps, the guards have no pre-knowledge they are NK refugees until they see them desparately trying to walk into the embassy. Why? Because China would rather establish their own national justice than allow people to experience freedom in a life or death situation. Power. Thanks China.
Tibet. Tibet used to be its own country. Until China decided that it would rather have it around 50 years ago. So, they went in with military force (which the Tibetans have little concept of modern military force since they are essentially a nearly indigenous people), so were easily taken over. Congratulations China, you're bigger, and have more people to 'take care of.' Good luck with that. Oh wait, you just make people's lives worse. For instance: China in vast majority has no concept of religion. But, they know they don't want Buddhism, so despite the fact that this religion has been deeply ingrained in the culture for centuries, China declares it illegal (not even with anything to replace it), and runs the Dalai Lama out of his home in Lhasa. Thanks China. Instead of preserving the beautiful land, China says, 'let's mine it, and trash it out.' Moreso, while all of Chinese culture was forced on the Tibetans, while they were stripped of theirs, Tibetans do not share the same privileges of the typical Chinese citizen. I met a Tibetan that had to sneak out of Tibet, spent time in Nepal and India, and when he tried to sneak back, he was thrown in prison for 2 years. Why? Because China does not allow Tibetans to enjoy the same priviledges as their 'other citizens.' So, my question is, 'Tibetans are forced into Chinese government, but aren't allowed any of the priviledges of Chinese government?" Interesting. Thanks China.
Then, the Chinese are on an fearful insecurity kick of tourists right now, because some people from our country (our bad) burned a Chinese flag and raised a 'Free Tibet' banner / flag at the Mount Everst base camp and streamed video of it before the Chinese could censor it. All to say, now you can't do anything as a tourist in Tibet outside of having a guide. This means that you can't travel with freedom as a tourist (which I suppose is a priviledge and not a right, fair enough), and has caused a monopoly in the guide industry which has skyrocketed prices. Further more, this enables China to establish what I call 'white tax.' This is the extra amount I have to pay for a normal service because I am foreign. For example, a jeep to the border of Nepal direct from Lhasa, which is the cheapest, legal way to do it, costs me 600 yuan, and my Chinese friends 500 yuan. Why? Because I am foreign. I suppose in my next job I should charge extra for any Chinese citizen for a typical service. Furthermore, I had the opportunity to travel all around Tibet in a jeep with some nice Chinese people I met. After investigation we found that there was no way I was allowed to legally travel Tibet with these people even though we told them we were friends. I could have seen all of Tibet for so cheap, but no dice. Thanks China. Hope all that power works out well for you.
When I needed a service from a Chinese service agent, as soon as they realized I could not speak much Chinese they would wave at me to go away. Thanks China. Sometimes there was someone nice enough around who spoken enough English to help me out which was amazing. So frustrating. Some people I talked with didn't have this problem. But, they were people who stayed in nice hotels, ate in nice restaurants, etc. I can't afford this luxury. Apparently courtesy can be bought at a price. Thanks China.
The Chinese constantly litter. In China it's perfectly normal to throw your bag or bottle out the bus or train window. And the benefits of this are clear. The benefits line the roadways and trainways, and heap up in the street. They constantly smoke, even indoors, even in cramped jeeps without bothering to roll down the window. Thanks China.
After being their just one month I was so ready to get out. To leave the constant oppression of the government at every corner, the tyranny, the inefficiency, etc. And I was there only one month. Imagine spending your whole life there. To those who constantly complain about America and all the injustice and bad things about America, please, relieve your misery and go spend a year in China.
I'm so glad to be out.
Namaste Nepal.
Farewell Big Red.
ps- if you're chinese, or have chinese friends, which you probably do, understand this has not to do with the specific people (for I did find some very helpful chinese people) but moreso the government etc.
okay. where to start.
i realized once that the chinese government is like a very bad father. he has too many kids to be able to take care of them properly, but insists on having more due to its drunken lust for power. because of this drive for power, it is afraid to afford any of its kids their own individuality. so, it forms a grid that everyone must exist in. what houses they can live in, what jobs they can have, etc. by the way, this is called communism (which it denies that it is). this father attempts 'freedom' by starting a voting election. it only goes so far, however, when there's only one political party. it's like when henry ford back in the day said, "people can pick any color for their new automobile. As long as its black." well, what you drive and who runs your country are on two slightly different levels. Because China has more people than it knows what to do with, and because they don't allow freedom in the market, they have to create jobs. These created jobs mean to do one thing, 5 people are necessary making any government practice (i.e. getting a visa), completely inefficient and last about 10 times longer than is necessary. Thanks China.
i was unable to see my blog for a whole month. china is very particular with what internet sites it lets its people see. china has shaky relations with "google," it doesn't want google, but realizes that it can't really do anything without them. this angers the bad father. but, even though my blogger is through google, china bans that. Sometimes when you're surfing the internet, a little pop-up window appears, and that means that the Chinese government is watching you at the very moment. If you're wondering more about this structure of government, try reading a novel titled 1984 by George Orwell. many times you cannot get onto the website that you want, because china is very afraid. You can't get a Lonely Planet (the most popular tourist guide in the world) of China or Tibet, because they say things that are true that China doesn't want people to know. Thanks China.
North Korea. Ooh. China really hates this one. The school I stayed at in China is a front for projects that run in North Korea. In the school we couldn't talk out loud about North Korea, because people, Chinese government people, are listening. background: North Korea is probably the most oppressive situation in the world right now complete with concentration camps and actual brainwashing. i.e. If you have a house in North Korea, you must have a picture of the present leader, and his father, and if they are dirty or broken, you can be sent to one of these camps. So, people try to flee NK because it is bad. These are called refugees. If China catches a refugee, they will send them back to NK, where they and their family for 3 generations spread, will be sent to a camp. They do this because it is illegal for a NK citizen to be in China. (uhhh, that's why the UN acknowledges 'refugee' situations. China does not comply with this however, they are angry that these foreign people are in their country. China knows that if these NK refugees make it into a South Korea embassy in China, they will be freed from the tyranny by being given South Korea citizenship (South Korea is semi-reluctantly empathetic to the NK situation), but the Chinese prefer to catch them and send them back to NK. There is video of people running past guards (similar to capture the flag) at the South Korea embassy so that they can be freed, and the guards tackling them to arrest them. ps, the guards have no pre-knowledge they are NK refugees until they see them desparately trying to walk into the embassy. Why? Because China would rather establish their own national justice than allow people to experience freedom in a life or death situation. Power. Thanks China.
Tibet. Tibet used to be its own country. Until China decided that it would rather have it around 50 years ago. So, they went in with military force (which the Tibetans have little concept of modern military force since they are essentially a nearly indigenous people), so were easily taken over. Congratulations China, you're bigger, and have more people to 'take care of.' Good luck with that. Oh wait, you just make people's lives worse. For instance: China in vast majority has no concept of religion. But, they know they don't want Buddhism, so despite the fact that this religion has been deeply ingrained in the culture for centuries, China declares it illegal (not even with anything to replace it), and runs the Dalai Lama out of his home in Lhasa. Thanks China. Instead of preserving the beautiful land, China says, 'let's mine it, and trash it out.' Moreso, while all of Chinese culture was forced on the Tibetans, while they were stripped of theirs, Tibetans do not share the same privileges of the typical Chinese citizen. I met a Tibetan that had to sneak out of Tibet, spent time in Nepal and India, and when he tried to sneak back, he was thrown in prison for 2 years. Why? Because China does not allow Tibetans to enjoy the same priviledges as their 'other citizens.' So, my question is, 'Tibetans are forced into Chinese government, but aren't allowed any of the priviledges of Chinese government?" Interesting. Thanks China.
Then, the Chinese are on an fearful insecurity kick of tourists right now, because some people from our country (our bad) burned a Chinese flag and raised a 'Free Tibet' banner / flag at the Mount Everst base camp and streamed video of it before the Chinese could censor it. All to say, now you can't do anything as a tourist in Tibet outside of having a guide. This means that you can't travel with freedom as a tourist (which I suppose is a priviledge and not a right, fair enough), and has caused a monopoly in the guide industry which has skyrocketed prices. Further more, this enables China to establish what I call 'white tax.' This is the extra amount I have to pay for a normal service because I am foreign. For example, a jeep to the border of Nepal direct from Lhasa, which is the cheapest, legal way to do it, costs me 600 yuan, and my Chinese friends 500 yuan. Why? Because I am foreign. I suppose in my next job I should charge extra for any Chinese citizen for a typical service. Furthermore, I had the opportunity to travel all around Tibet in a jeep with some nice Chinese people I met. After investigation we found that there was no way I was allowed to legally travel Tibet with these people even though we told them we were friends. I could have seen all of Tibet for so cheap, but no dice. Thanks China. Hope all that power works out well for you.
When I needed a service from a Chinese service agent, as soon as they realized I could not speak much Chinese they would wave at me to go away. Thanks China. Sometimes there was someone nice enough around who spoken enough English to help me out which was amazing. So frustrating. Some people I talked with didn't have this problem. But, they were people who stayed in nice hotels, ate in nice restaurants, etc. I can't afford this luxury. Apparently courtesy can be bought at a price. Thanks China.
The Chinese constantly litter. In China it's perfectly normal to throw your bag or bottle out the bus or train window. And the benefits of this are clear. The benefits line the roadways and trainways, and heap up in the street. They constantly smoke, even indoors, even in cramped jeeps without bothering to roll down the window. Thanks China.
After being their just one month I was so ready to get out. To leave the constant oppression of the government at every corner, the tyranny, the inefficiency, etc. And I was there only one month. Imagine spending your whole life there. To those who constantly complain about America and all the injustice and bad things about America, please, relieve your misery and go spend a year in China.
I'm so glad to be out.
Namaste Nepal.
Farewell Big Red.
Sunday, September 2, 2007
lhasa, tibet, china
different from beijing, being stuck in lhasa is a good thing.
I need to upload photos, but for the time being I just can't be bothered.
to fill you in, lhasa is at just under 12,000 ft. of altitude. it's in a valley in between two small ranges that are part of the himalayas. the valley has the lhasa river that rolls through it. unfortunately, there's a lot of chinese influence in lhasa, since they took over 50 years ago. The irony is that had china not taken over i wouldn't be here, along with all of my fellow travellers in this great city. i think the trick is to get out of lhasa and see the real tibetan countryside. unfortunately, about 5 months ago, some passionate Western protestors (probably similar to that of a typical Boulderite) decided it would be a good idea to set fire to chinese flags for their own personal 'free tibet' campaign. Not only did they fail to 'free tibet' from chinese rule (surprisingly china didn't have compassion for their cause), but they imprisoned foreigners from being able to travel tibet freely. I met some rad chinese people who wanted me to accompany them all the way around tibet in their jeep, seeing everything tibet has to offer, for dirt cheap (splitting gas and accomodation), but we discovered that it is 100% impossible for a foreigner to travel outside of lhasa without a certified guide. certified guide = mucho denero, which of course the prices sky-rocketed ever since the protestors caused a monopoly in the market for tibetan guides. i mean, perhaps they carried a good message, but a poor method. maybe they should get a degree in communications from an accredited texan university. but i digress.
yesterday i did a hike of one of the local mountains. I have never had so much trouble and exhaustion form a mountain. I was actually unable to peak the summit I was attempting, because of altitude and how much effort it took me to get to it (there are no trails, just some random cow trails). In the distance I saw some Tibetan 'cattle ranchers' gathering their cattle and driving them down into town. Walking around the Himalayas directing their cattle at 17,000 ft. with long sticks apparently is just another day at the office. Needless to say, I established my gaper status in the Himalayas, and am mentally and emotionally recovering from my first failed summit ever. The conditions were perfect, I just couldn't hang with going probably 3 or 4,000 feet than I have ever gone before. Fair enough.
I will leave for Kathmandu, Nepal soon. I cannot wait. Wu ai lhasa, and I hope to return someday- maybe when i have more money to pay someone who will drive me all around tibet.
peace friends.
I need to upload photos, but for the time being I just can't be bothered.
to fill you in, lhasa is at just under 12,000 ft. of altitude. it's in a valley in between two small ranges that are part of the himalayas. the valley has the lhasa river that rolls through it. unfortunately, there's a lot of chinese influence in lhasa, since they took over 50 years ago. The irony is that had china not taken over i wouldn't be here, along with all of my fellow travellers in this great city. i think the trick is to get out of lhasa and see the real tibetan countryside. unfortunately, about 5 months ago, some passionate Western protestors (probably similar to that of a typical Boulderite) decided it would be a good idea to set fire to chinese flags for their own personal 'free tibet' campaign. Not only did they fail to 'free tibet' from chinese rule (surprisingly china didn't have compassion for their cause), but they imprisoned foreigners from being able to travel tibet freely. I met some rad chinese people who wanted me to accompany them all the way around tibet in their jeep, seeing everything tibet has to offer, for dirt cheap (splitting gas and accomodation), but we discovered that it is 100% impossible for a foreigner to travel outside of lhasa without a certified guide. certified guide = mucho denero, which of course the prices sky-rocketed ever since the protestors caused a monopoly in the market for tibetan guides. i mean, perhaps they carried a good message, but a poor method. maybe they should get a degree in communications from an accredited texan university. but i digress.
yesterday i did a hike of one of the local mountains. I have never had so much trouble and exhaustion form a mountain. I was actually unable to peak the summit I was attempting, because of altitude and how much effort it took me to get to it (there are no trails, just some random cow trails). In the distance I saw some Tibetan 'cattle ranchers' gathering their cattle and driving them down into town. Walking around the Himalayas directing their cattle at 17,000 ft. with long sticks apparently is just another day at the office. Needless to say, I established my gaper status in the Himalayas, and am mentally and emotionally recovering from my first failed summit ever. The conditions were perfect, I just couldn't hang with going probably 3 or 4,000 feet than I have ever gone before. Fair enough.
I will leave for Kathmandu, Nepal soon. I cannot wait. Wu ai lhasa, and I hope to return someday- maybe when i have more money to pay someone who will drive me all around tibet.
peace friends.
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
beijing, china
i mean. Apparently we're going to station in the 'jing for a little bit. We have good reasons for this, part of it is waiting on a permit to get through Tibet. Well, one permit gets you to Lhasa, Tibet, and the other allows you to leave the city. Apparently it's a bit of a prickly situation, that you should look up more about. That's nice of them to offer a permit so that you can leave their city. And you thought Branson Missouri could suck you in---
But, it's given a good chance to see the sites around Beijing which there's a few to offer. The biggest being the Great Wall. I'm not confident in my history, but I'm pretty sure the Chinese built it around 600 to keep the Mongolians from getting to their sweet alpine slide on the China side of the wall. Video should be below. Yes, I got to hook up with the Combs' brothers (Ping Chi Ling and La Dudsa, though I ended up taking over the aka La dudsa for reasons you will discover if you find out the interpretation). We also visited Summer Palace which is basically the old Emperor's summer gig and puts anyone on MTV's 'Cribs' to shame, went to a water park, and they even properly lived up Beijing by getting bamboozled by a crafty taxi driver who took advantage of his foreign passengers.
We made a great contact here in the 'jing, Bo Yee, through Emma's endless network of Asia who is uber helpful and entertaining to stay with. That would be her in what an American would think is pajamas, but is actually kung fu attire as she's being filmed doing her kung fu for a reality show about a day in the life of someone who lives in the 'jing. I think I'm gathering that if you're a "half" (half Chinese and half American) you are a valuable commodity for the entertainment industry. I'm able to learn even more about the culture since Bo Yee is just about as familiar with China as she is America. So, all's well, and my next goal is to expose some of the entertaining idiosyncracies of Chinese culture.
Thursday, August 9, 2007
shenyang, china
you might notice i'm getting a little technological on all y'all. i'm currently contemplating foregoing the old school form of typing and just throwing you video feed. that probably won't happen though. but, i feel like i'm riding the wave of the future here, so bear with me.
the story behind these is emma looked up things to do in shenyang since we had like 15 hours to kill and had already walked around the city and snuck into three hotel lobbies for internet. so, we find ourselves hunting down this mystical "magic slope" via taxi that henry and justin from the grand century hotel hooked up for us, only to find out it's about as good as those freak shows you would go to at the carnival when you were a disappointed cotton-candy mouthed kid. i should have shot footage of the slope itself, but to be honest we weren't even sure we were on it when we were. that's how much it blew our 'mystified' minds.
shenyang in general is pretty rad though, so don't let the slope leave it with a bad rap.
Wednesday, August 8, 2007
check this out---
My friend pointed me towards this site here, and I feel pretty good about it. It's still a bit ghetto but I hope to expand it a bit. I'm horribly visual, so if you float the same boat as me, it should help you get an idea of my path as it unfolds.
Let me tell you about this girl---
Many of you have heard me at least talk about this girl that I am traveling with. In Asia she has taken on the moniker, Emma, which I am still getting used to. Her quick background is that she grew up in Denver and went to Baylor in 2000 I believe. From there she left for Nepal for 3 months, which has now stretched out to a strong 3 years. Fair enough, it happens to the best of us. Her resume to the best of my knowledge and memory is as follows:
-working in the red light district of Bangkok, while living with prostitutes
-becoming the surrogate mother of 6 Nepalese street kid thugs, arranging every aspect of their new lives including their home, finances, and education
-earning a master's degree in international development
-becoming involved in the politics of the most oppressive country and situation in our world today including protesting and increasing awareness, which is what her goal is today
As you can see, her impact reaches all realms. However, last night at a coffee shop she said, "No matter what you do on this earth, it still doesn't matter because if you don't do it, somebody else will, and this earth is only temporary." That could almost make her sound flippant until you hear her reflect on a prayer session that she attended regarding that aforementioned political situation, "For 6 hours they prayed and talked about the situation, but not once did they say what action we should take." This really annoyed her. She hates it when people hear and then turn a deaf ear to pretend that they didn't. She hates it when people "feel compassion" but follow with zero action, and do nothing about what they have heard or seen. -I think a man once talked about some people who saw a person in need and just crossed to the other side of the road.- While over here, she is clear that she is not trying to convert anyone, but rather is trying to merely live out the gospel. She is currently working on writing a book to increase awareness of this political situation, which she has covered strong ground work by interviewing people directly involved.
With her I am reminded of a story about a guy who visited his friend late at night because an unexpected traveling guest showed up on his doorstep, and he had no bread for him. His friend was in bed, and did not want to get up, and would not have gotten up merely because it was his friend that was asking. But, since his friend was insistent and continuing to ask, he did get up and get him the bread. Persistence goes a long way, and she seems to know this.
To say that her way of life is challenging to me and surely others is an understatement.
And, she's going to hate that I posted this.
What I like least about her is how fast she likes to walk.
-working in the red light district of Bangkok, while living with prostitutes
-becoming the surrogate mother of 6 Nepalese street kid thugs, arranging every aspect of their new lives including their home, finances, and education
-earning a master's degree in international development
-becoming involved in the politics of the most oppressive country and situation in our world today including protesting and increasing awareness, which is what her goal is today
As you can see, her impact reaches all realms. However, last night at a coffee shop she said, "No matter what you do on this earth, it still doesn't matter because if you don't do it, somebody else will, and this earth is only temporary." That could almost make her sound flippant until you hear her reflect on a prayer session that she attended regarding that aforementioned political situation, "For 6 hours they prayed and talked about the situation, but not once did they say what action we should take." This really annoyed her. She hates it when people hear and then turn a deaf ear to pretend that they didn't. She hates it when people "feel compassion" but follow with zero action, and do nothing about what they have heard or seen. -I think a man once talked about some people who saw a person in need and just crossed to the other side of the road.- While over here, she is clear that she is not trying to convert anyone, but rather is trying to merely live out the gospel. She is currently working on writing a book to increase awareness of this political situation, which she has covered strong ground work by interviewing people directly involved.
With her I am reminded of a story about a guy who visited his friend late at night because an unexpected traveling guest showed up on his doorstep, and he had no bread for him. His friend was in bed, and did not want to get up, and would not have gotten up merely because it was his friend that was asking. But, since his friend was insistent and continuing to ask, he did get up and get him the bread. Persistence goes a long way, and she seems to know this.
To say that her way of life is challenging to me and surely others is an understatement.
And, she's going to hate that I posted this.
What I like least about her is how fast she likes to walk.
Sunday, August 5, 2007
tumen, china
Amazingly there is a vocational school here that is able to house us. In exchange we hope to do some work that will support this 'school.' You should look on the map of where it is, because it is conveniently located very near a location of high controversy. The country's border is that river that there is a picture of...
The city is great, it is a breath of fresh air away from the fast pace of Seoul and the tackiness of Dalia. It is full of real, simple people that just make their living and seem to enjoy the people around them. It does not take sharp eyes to be able to see people enjoying their leisure time around here. I do not know how long we will stay, it is quite undetermined. Part of the time will depend on how much help we are able to do while we stay.
The principal of the school moved here from the states to start this project. The school also serves as a hq for many projects in the country directly to the east. He was a very interesting man, clearly believing very deeply in helping people who really need it and have very few options. I really enjoyed a few of the students that were around the school. Despite the language barrier I worked alongside them doing physical labor at the school, played soccer and pool with them, and maintained a level of friendship which is difficult when you can't talk about anything really. But, that's the great thing about work and play.
ps- sorry I wasn't able to post this before, but because of the area of controversy it was best to wait a bit.
pss- remember i can't see my blog, so if any of the links are broken i apologize, i'll see it for the first time when i get to nepal---
Friday, August 3, 2007
dalian, china
thank goodness these guys were able to pick us up from the airport. I do not know what we would have done without them. I mean, we would have figured out lodging 
and a train ticket, but it would have been muy difficult. Good gravy. The train ticket was such a hassle especially with the people of the country we are in being stereotypically very very very pushy, even physically. Of course, it is normal for their culture, but drastically different to the one I am used to.
and a train ticket, but it would have been muy difficult. Good gravy. The train ticket was such a hassle especially with the people of the country we are in being stereotypically very very very pushy, even physically. Of course, it is normal for their culture, but drastically different to the one I am used to. Dalian is the Chinese version of England's city of Blackpool. If it wasn't the rocky beach it was the constant amusement park that made me ready to leave. Thank goodness, because I can't think of anything else that would cause me to actually welcome a 21 hour train ride to northern China.
ps- If you ever have the need for complete over-the-top, thorough , quality hospitality shown to you, visit someone from Nepal. These Nepalese guys, Rakesh (sunglasses) and Santosh paid for everything that they could, cooked us a traditional Nepalese meal in their apartment, and did more for us than I though humanly possible. Their motto was "This time we get for you, next time, you get." Hopefully I will get the chance to reciprocate to these life saving Hindu medical students. Someday.
did I mention that we had never met them before, and they were just friends of friends of Emma's?
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
seoul, south korea
Getting off the airplane was very nice. Part of being on the airplane was nice because to no surprise John Rhodes was able to hook up a system upgrade which left me in business class. It made me want to make like a man I saw on tv once and "brush that dirt off [my] shoulder." (also see baller) The beef was a little sketchy, but the wine made up for it. Probably because I know a lot more about beef than I do wine. I am always confused when I first get in business class because I am baffled that they are offering me drinks before the plane has even left the gate, and that one of those drinks is champagne and I don't have to pay for it. I took the orange juice.
The surprise Pamela
(heretofore referred to as Emma) had for me in Seoul was really nice and educational because I had never stayed in a Buddhist monastery before. The monks treated me very well, made delicious food (thanks to 'cooking monk' (far right), and were great to talk to. The mosquito net did not work as well as I had hoped after the first night, but I think I tucked it under my blanket better the second night. I enjoyed the tour of the palace that Panya gave me (to my right), and I even rolled to a spa for a therapeutic morning with 'head monk' (far left) the next morning. So good.
(heretofore referred to as Emma) had for me in Seoul was really nice and educational because I had never stayed in a Buddhist monastery before. The monks treated me very well, made delicious food (thanks to 'cooking monk' (far right), and were great to talk to. The mosquito net did not work as well as I had hoped after the first night, but I think I tucked it under my blanket better the second night. I enjoyed the tour of the palace that Panya gave me (to my right), and I even rolled to a spa for a therapeutic morning with 'head monk' (far left) the next morning. So good. I quite enjoyed walkin
g around the city with the monks. I figured it was an interesting picture for the locals- the only white person around walking around with a monk. The conversations we had were beyond interesting, partly reminding me of my days when I contemplated monkhood. More than anything I noticed how youthful and peaceful the monks themselves were especially in contrast to the hardened faces of the laypeople of South Korea. It made me wonder if there is a way to retain at least a level of peace and introspection in our lives as laypeople. I hope so.
g around the city with the monks. I figured it was an interesting picture for the locals- the only white person around walking around with a monk. The conversations we had were beyond interesting, partly reminding me of my days when I contemplated monkhood. More than anything I noticed how youthful and peaceful the monks themselves were especially in contrast to the hardened faces of the laypeople of South Korea. It made me wonder if there is a way to retain at least a level of peace and introspection in our lives as laypeople. I hope so. I think I was a little disappointed to leave Seoul without seeing much of the city itself, but there are greener pastures ahead---
ps-I'm playing a bit of catch up as I was not able to set up this account before I left. We will be up to date soon. so, if it posts for august 4, pretend that it says july 30-2.
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